One fine day

It's been a week of blue sky and warm spring weather but the forecast says it's changing at the weekend. So today we headed up to the Cabane d'Arpitettaz for lunch out on the terrace. After a 1200m climb a cheese sandwich never tasted so good. The view up to the glacier is amazing, as was the spring snow we found on the ski back down. PK

New route to Lac d'Arpitettaz

After a snowy day the sun came out and we just had to go for a walk. It's been a while since we've done this route and we found quite a few changes. 

Across the Plat de la Le and up the first section everything was covered in an inch or two of fresh snow - not enough to completely cover the autumn colours, but it gave it a certain something.

Walking up from the Plat to the bridge

Reaching the upper level, we came to a new bridge spanning the Navisence. Since a storm in August 2013 washed away much of the river bank, (including the original bridge), several temporary bridges have been used to span the multiple streams and rocky floodplain, but these too were vulnerable to flooding. Now that's changed as this new wooden structure is built up on solid concrete footings.

New bridge spans the Navisence

Once over on the east side we found the path has been re routed. The new way, freshly carved into the turf, heads south to pass close above the cascade, before climbing up to the cross and enclosures at Le Chiesso.

The new path goes above the Cascade de la Volermo

Continuing on up to the Lac, there was another surprise - two shepherd's huts with solar panels had been dropped in for the season. Designed by three carpenters from Diablerets these high tech, mini pods are light enough for a helicopter to lift up to the high 'alpages', giving shepherds a more comfortable night under the stars.  PK

Temporary shepherd's huts by Lac d'Arpitetta

You can read more about this project on www.24heures.ch

Trails and Tales of the Turtmann

Heading south on the eastern slopes of the Turtmanntal

This summer we've spent several days walking in the magical, wild and near deserted neighbouring valley - the Turtmanntal.  It was here that the last bear was killed, and is now the terrain of a wolf, as well as home to eagles and of course marmots, chamois and ibex.

Old paths and waterways

There's a road up from the valley, but arriving by cable car in Oberems gives a real sense of separation from what's below, as does walking down from one of the passes. Walkers on the long distance 'Tour du Cervin' or 'Summer Haute Route' from Chamoix to Zermatt cross this valley. Descending from the Meidpass, most stay at the Hotel Schwarzhorn in Gruben, an old victorian hotel, before continuing their route on up to the Augstbordpass and over to the Zermatt valley (at 2893m it's name gives travellers a clue as to when it's reliably passable).

Heading up to the Augstbordpass

The trails and paths that run south from Oberems are less travelled, some are overgrown and parts have fallen away. There are bisse to follow and old shepherd huts that tell of times when this was an important summer grazing area. Hanging in the chapel at Gruben is a wonderful painting depicting the 1822 rescue of a girl from the river. She was swept downstream for over 2km before a shepherd spotted and plucked her from the water.

Bear paw, 'man of the forest' and rescue story

Continuing further south from Gruben the valley ends at the snout of the Turtmann glacier, from here it's mountaineering and ski-touring country.

Looking across to the Turtmann glacier from Col des Arpettes

To find out more:
www.turtmanntal.ch

The Grand Tour of the Val d'Anniviers

Spectacular views of the Imperial Crown

After 8 years of living here we've walked most of the valley's footpaths and yet the views still stop us in our tracks. Walk the same route twice (or more) and it's different every time - changing with the weather and seasons. So it was a great pleasure when Inntravel asked us to re-walk and adapt their existing tour of the Val d’Anniviers. The journey has high and low level routes to allow for bad weather and tired legs, and includes some of the best this area has to offer - alpine meadows, old chalets and villages, ridges and lakes, and all with the spectacular snow capped mountains to the south. With a bit of luck, there's a chance to see some of the local wildlife too - red squirrels, chamois, ibex, marmots, eagles, adders, fox - to name a few.

From Vercorin explore the 'bisse' and Vall on de Rechy

Starting in Vercorin, the perfect warm-up and introduction to the old valley routes is to follow the 'bisse' - the 500 year old channel which brings water around from the Vallon de Rechy to the village. It’s a gentle walk through woods to the open meadows around the buvette at La Lé where you can stop for a drink and something to eat, before heading back to the village.

The dramatic high route along the Crete from Vercorin to Grimentz

To walk from Vercorin to Grimentz via the Crêt du Midi and Brinta is a highlight. Taking the gondola up from the village to the Crêt, you save your energy for this long ridgewalk with fabulous mountain views. But if the weather's bad there's a lovely walk through the woods and alpages with old chalets, lovely flowers and views too.

Low level walks through meadows and alpine villages

From Grimentz you can spend your day getting closer to the snow with a walk around the Moiry reservoir and on, up to the Cabane de Moiry. The new restaurant extension, with floor to ceiling windows, looks straight out onto the glacier and is a great place for lunch.

A circuit around the Moiry and up to the Cabane from Grimentz 

Some of the most spectacular mountain scenery is from Zinal. The walk up to the Cabane Arpitettaz is as dramatic as it comes with backdrop of the 4506m Weisshorn and the snowy Blanc de Moming giving a Himalayan sense of scale. Then there's the walk over the Roc de la Vache and to the Petit & Grand Mountet refuges through lovely alpine terrain.

Many spectacular walks around Zinal

The high 'balcony' walk from Zinal to St Luc is another classic with views of the Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Pointe de Zinal, Besso and Dent Blanche.

High 'balcony' walk between Zinal and St Luc

From St Luc, to finish your week, there's the wonderful panorama from the top of the Ilhorn. From here you can see your entire route around the valley to the west and south, and perhaps plan a trip north into the Bernese Oberland.

Panoramic views from the Ilhorn above St Luc

So when’s good to walk? From mid June (when the lifts open for walkers) right through until late October. Autumn is one of our favourite times here - perfect walking temperature, golden larches and early snow dusting the mountain tops. And barely a soul to be seen.

Autumn colours in Val d'Anniviers

To find out more about the walking on tour visit Inntravel, or if you fancy to stay put and explore at your leisure then self-catering from one of our chalets is a great option.

White Russian

This year our end of season ski tour took us away from the Alps to the Caucasus Mountains, Russia. A very different adventure, and the chance to climb the highest mountain in Europe - Mt Elbrus 5642m.  Thanks Olly and Mountain Tracks for putting together a wonderful trip with great people.

Here's a 3 minute slide show (best viewed on YouTube) of the trip and a few stills to give you a taste...

Brown and white, mixed with ice - the perfect White Russian

Fresh snow around the Ullu Tau Lodge

Flying from London via Moscow we ended up at the Ullu Tau Lodge in the Adyr-Su Valley close to the Georgian border. So close in fact that each morning required a 45minute stop at the army checkpoint to go through papers. Time to look up at the mountains and our day ahead.

The mountains around the valley

A wonderful place to ski tour and acclimatise...

Wonderful touring

before heading over to Elbrus and its infamous accommodation - 'the barrels'...

Elbrus and it's views

after 2 days of storms and some more altitude acclimatisation, we got lucky with the weather and all made it to the top (along with 100's who were competing in the 'Red Fox Race')...

A successful summit after 2 days of storm

before returning to the valley and the villages.

Some local characters

Rule Britannia

The Britannia Hutte at 3030m

Paid for by the British members of the Swiss Alpine Club, the Britannia Hutte first opened in 1912, and was given to the SAC in thanks for the hospitality British mountaineers had always received. One hundred years on and the connection is still strong. For the centenary anniversary the British members bought the hut seven new solar panels.

Starting out to summit the Strahlhorn 4190m

Today the Britannia Hutte isn't just popular with the British in fact its the most popular hut run by the SAC in the alps. Why? As they say it's location, location, location. So close to Saas Fee (in winter ski tourers can use the lifts almost to the door - it's just a 15 minute slide and walk from the top of the Egginerjoch drag lift), and it's so close to some stunning mountains. From the hut you can summit the Strahlhorn 4190m, Fuchthorn 3795m, Rimpfischhorn 4198m, Alphubel 4206m,  Allainhorn 4027m and join the Haute-Route ski tour. And don't forget those amazing sunsets.

Stunning sunsets

But the accommodation and food is also top notch. Having undergone an extension and renovations in 1997, it can comfortably sleep 134, has 3 dining rooms, indoor loos and running water and is run by a small, extremely cheery team who work from before 5 am to gone 10pm each day. It's popularity with guides may be down to the free pre-dinner glass of wine.

One of the three dining rooms

The hut is open for ski tourers from March-May, and for summer mountaineering and climbing from middle of June to end of September. To book visit the website www.britannia.ch

Zinal to Cabane Petit Mountet - the 'high' way

Stunning mountain views

Lowering yourself on a chain through an ice cold waterfall is not everyones idea of a good walk, but if you can cope, you're rewarded with some of the most spectacular views the valley has to offer. This high route is a 'mountain fest' of snow, ice and peaks. In front of you is the whole Imperial Crown -  the collective name for the five 4000m+ peaks (Bishorn, Weisshorn, Zinal Rothorn, Obergabelhorn, and Dent Blanche) that sit at the head of the valley, plus the other 'little' mountains that fill your horizon - oh and lets not forget glimpses of the Matterhorn right at the back.

Not for the nervous walker

Taking the cable car up to Sorebois saves the 800m climb up from Zinal village and puts you near the start of the 2400m contour that you follow south. The route winds and climbs around the mountain on flower lined paths, crossing streams, waterfalls, rock shoots and in early summer the possible snow patch before opening out in a meadow - the perfect picnic spot to sit and soak up the view.

Picnic spot with wonderful mountain views

Descend through meadows of Alpenrose to the Cabane

After this point the route descends through meadows of Alpenrose to Cabane Petit Mountet (2142m) where you can relax with a beer and look out onto the Zinal Glacier before heading north and down to Zinal through meadows and across La Pla.

Heading back to Zinal through meadows and across La Pla

Total distance: 14.5 km
Time: about 5 hrs to include stops
Ascent: 250 m
Descent: 1015 m

Top 100

This is the 100th post on this blog so it seems appropriate to list (in no particular order) some of our favourite things to see, do and experience in and around the Val d'Anniviers

Things to see: 

Black-nosed sheep, gentians and edelweiss.

• Patch of gentians
• Black-nosed sheep
• Ptarmigan
• Edelweiss
• Sunset on the Besso
• Crocus poking up through the snow as spring arrives
• Meadows of summer flowers
• Marmotts running across the fields
• Ibex on the cliffs
• Waterfalls beyond Zinal in spring
• Golden Eagles

Walking routes:

Tour lac de Moiry, Lac Noir and up to Cabane d'Arpitettaz

• Up to Cabane d'Arpitettaz 
• Wiesshorn hotel to Zinal
• From top of Sorebois lift to Cabane Petit Mountet 
• Tour lac de Moiry
• Bisse walk in Vercorin
• Descent of Vallon de Rechy
• Crete de Midi
• Up to Cabane Grand Mountet
• From Bendolla south to the dam
• Chandolin along the cliffs
• Lac noir above St Luc

Best events:

Feeries Christmas Market, Sierre-Zinal race

• 1st August fireworks in Zinal
• Feeries Christmas market Grimentz
• Friday markets in August Grimentz
• Sierre Zinal mountain marathon
• Vercorin jazz festival
• Grimentz three day classical music festival 
• Marche des Cepages, wine and walking tour though the vin-yards
• Desalps
• Grand Raid – Verbier to Grimentz mountain bike race 

Food & Wine:

Locally cured sausages, home-made redcurrant jelly

• Fresh serac cheese from the alpine diary
• Vin de glacier from Bourgeois Grimentz
• Myrtle tart at Hotel Wiesshorn
• Wild alpine strawberries 
• Multi-grain bread from Salamin bakery
• Local cured dried sausages
• Redcurrant jelly made from the wild berries around the house
• Glass of white wine from the caves of Sierre

Favorite pistes to ski:

Illhorn red piste, Chandolin

• Chamois, Zinal
• Pas de Beouf to Prillet, St Luc
• Vercorin blue, from top station to the village
• Blue from Grands Plans chair past Etable du Marais, Grimentz
• Illhorn red piste, Chandolin

Things to do and visit:

Grimentz old town, moon light walk in winter, Hotel Weisshorn

• Histoic house, Zinal
• Walk through Zinal old town
• Centre of Grimentz
• Moon light walk in winter
• Sleep out under the stars on a summer's night
• Visit old flour mill in Grimentz
• See cheese being made in the mountain dairies
• Star gaze from the St Luc observatory
• Visit hotel Weisshorn – even better stay overnight
• Visit Tzoucdana cafe and see the farm animals
• Overnight in a mountain hut 
• Via ferrata below Moiry dam
• Snow shoe to the snout of the Zinal glacier and discover the ice-cave

Best off piste:

Down to the dam

• Down to the dam from Zinal
• Orzival
• Vallon de Rechy
• Variants around Chamois
• Off back of St Luc into Turtmann valley
• Zinal free-ride zone
• Vercorin trees
• Lona
• Pylon route 
• Middle bowl, Zinal
• Abondance
• Trees to Chiesso Blanc

Views to see:

Weisshorn, glaciers above Grand Mountet, sunset from Tracuit

• Sunset from Cabane Tracuit
• Top of Ilhorn over Rhone valley
• Col des Arpettes into Turtmann valley
• Glaciers from Cabane du Grand Mountet 
• Besso from Lac d'Arpitettaz
• Glaciers from Cabane du Moiry
• From Niouc the 'Imperial Crown'
• Weisshorn from bridge above Zinal 
• South from Barneuza
• South into Vallon de Rechy from top of Vercorin

Day ski-tours:

Basset de Levron, Bec de Bosson, Col du Pigne

• Tourno, St Luc
• Basset de Lona, Grimentz
• Cabane d'Arpittetta and on to Glacier de Moming
• Basset de Levron, Grimentz
• Off back Grimentz and over to Nax
• Glacier de Moiry and Col du Pigne
• Off back of Bella Tola

Favourite time of year:

Autumn colours, Zinal

• January – low sun and wonderful light
• February – early on, good snow and no people
• March – warmer and longer ski days
• April – spring snow
• May – crocuses appear through the melting snow
• June – meadows around the house are full of flowers
• July – higher alpine meadows come into flower
• August – lots of music and other events in all the villages
• September – warm days, no people and great walking
• October – larches turn golden and first snow on the peaks
• November – Zinal opens for weekend skiing
• December – Feeries market in Grimentz