Vallon de Rechy - downhill (nearly) all the way

Alpenrose in bloom as we descend from the Cret

Views of La Maya at the head of the valley

The gondolas in Vercorin started their summer timetable last weekend. With the current heatwave the 1000m ride up to the top of the Cret de Midi at 2330m meant the air was a lot cooler and we reached the start of one of the area's more gentle mountain walks and prettiest ways into the Rechy valley  - without even needing to walk up hill.

Flowering marsh meadows at l'Ar du Tsan

Crossing back before starting our descent

From the top of the Cret we followed a wonderful gentle descending traverse that scribed the hillside south, past blooming alpenrose, to the buttercup filled marsh meadows at L'Ar du Tsan (2180m). From here you could turn north and continue to descend (more steeply) to the next flat area at La Le and the start of the bisse waterway which flows with you all the way back to Vercorin. But we decided to extend our route and climbed up to the next flat area (near Lac Louche) for closer views of La Maya and a great picnic spot before making a loop which brought us back to the Tsan meadows and on down. A great day out.   PK

Descending from Tsan to La Le

Besso

View from the kitchen sink

From our kitchen window we get a fabulous view of the steep, rocky, NW face of the Besso - this evening it had a rosy alpenglow, against a clear sky scattered with a few early stars. At 3667m it's not the highest mountain in the valley, but it's perhaps the most distinctive.  The two peaks gave it its name - 'Besso' meaning double or twin in the old local patois.

It was probably first climbed in the 1860's by two local guides via a route not seen from the house. The 'standard' route to the summit starts from the Grand Mountet hut, and goes up the rocky, and at times exposed, SE ridge. The view from the top should be amazing but for now I'm happy with my view from the window...  PK

Views and colours of the NW face of the Besso

From the ski domain it looks quite tiny - seen in the centre of the picture

New route to Lac d'Arpitettaz

After a snowy day the sun came out and we just had to go for a walk. It's been a while since we've done this route and we found quite a few changes. 

Across the Plat de la Le and up the first section everything was covered in an inch or two of fresh snow - not enough to completely cover the autumn colours, but it gave it a certain something.

Walking up from the Plat to the bridge

Reaching the upper level, we came to a new bridge spanning the Navisence. Since a storm in August 2013 washed away much of the river bank, (including the original bridge), several temporary bridges have been used to span the multiple streams and rocky floodplain, but these too were vulnerable to flooding. Now that's changed as this new wooden structure is built up on solid concrete footings.

New bridge spans the Navisence

Once over on the east side we found the path has been re routed. The new way, freshly carved into the turf, heads south to pass close above the cascade, before climbing up to the cross and enclosures at Le Chiesso.

The new path goes above the Cascade de la Volermo

Continuing on up to the Lac, there was another surprise - two shepherd's huts with solar panels had been dropped in for the season. Designed by three carpenters from Diablerets these high tech, mini pods are light enough for a helicopter to lift up to the high 'alpages', giving shepherds a more comfortable night under the stars.  PK

Temporary shepherd's huts by Lac d'Arpitetta

You can read more about this project on www.24heures.ch

Trails and Tales of the Turtmann

Heading south on the eastern slopes of the Turtmanntal

This summer we've spent several days walking in the magical, wild and near deserted neighbouring valley - the Turtmanntal.  It was here that the last bear was killed, and is now the terrain of a wolf, as well as home to eagles and of course marmots, chamois and ibex.

Old paths and waterways

There's a road up from the valley, but arriving by cable car in Oberems gives a real sense of separation from what's below, as does walking down from one of the passes. Walkers on the long distance 'Tour du Cervin' or 'Summer Haute Route' from Chamoix to Zermatt cross this valley. Descending from the Meidpass, most stay at the Hotel Schwarzhorn in Gruben, an old victorian hotel, before continuing their route on up to the Augstbordpass and over to the Zermatt valley (at 2893m it's name gives travellers a clue as to when it's reliably passable).

Heading up to the Augstbordpass

The trails and paths that run south from Oberems are less travelled, some are overgrown and parts have fallen away. There are bisse to follow and old shepherd huts that tell of times when this was an important summer grazing area. Hanging in the chapel at Gruben is a wonderful painting depicting the 1822 rescue of a girl from the river. She was swept downstream for over 2km before a shepherd spotted and plucked her from the water.

Bear paw, 'man of the forest' and rescue story

Continuing further south from Gruben the valley ends at the snout of the Turtmann glacier, from here it's mountaineering and ski-touring country.

Looking across to the Turtmann glacier from Col des Arpettes

To find out more:
www.turtmanntal.ch

A rocky existence.

This summer we've done lots of walking up to 3000m - well above the tree line of around 1800m. At these higher altitudes the terrain is harsh and exposed, and snow patches can last all year. But somehow things still grow - a quick glance across a grey scree slope just below the Hohtürli pass and it appeared to be just thousands of stones and certainly no soil. Look a little longer and your eyes adjust to see splashes of green and pink - a 'field' of Glacier Crowfoot grow in splattered patches across the slope. The record for high alpine flowers goes to Saxifrage biflora, a pretty pink flowering plant, which has been found at above 4000m in the alps

Just below the Hohturli pass - Glacier Crowfoot - Ranunculus glacialis

A little lower down, a crack in the rock becomes the perfect 'flower-pot' for some Dwarf Rampion

Dwarf Rampion - Phyteuma humile

At the mouth of the Zinal glacier amongst large rocks Alpine Toadflax blooms and Pansies cover another scree slope

L: Alpine Toadflax - Linaria alpina. R:Alpine Pansy - Viola alpina

Dwarf Soapwort and Harebells flourish in hairline cracks in boulders near the Cabane Bec de Bosson and above the Moiry reservoir

Dwarf Soapwort - Saponaria pumilio 

Dwarf Harebell - Campanula collina

A small depression in a boulder is filled with Moss Campion near the Gemmi pass

Moss Campion - Silene acaulis

And along a much travelled path, Alpine Saxifrage manages to survive the altitude and passing walkers tramping through.

Alpine Saxifrage - Saxifraga nivalis

White Russian

This year our end of season ski tour took us away from the Alps to the Caucasus Mountains, Russia. A very different adventure, and the chance to climb the highest mountain in Europe - Mt Elbrus 5642m.  Thanks Olly and Mountain Tracks for putting together a wonderful trip with great people.

Here's a 3 minute slide show (best viewed on YouTube) of the trip and a few stills to give you a taste...

Brown and white, mixed with ice - the perfect White Russian

Fresh snow around the Ullu Tau Lodge

Flying from London via Moscow we ended up at the Ullu Tau Lodge in the Adyr-Su Valley close to the Georgian border. So close in fact that each morning required a 45minute stop at the army checkpoint to go through papers. Time to look up at the mountains and our day ahead.

The mountains around the valley

A wonderful place to ski tour and acclimatise...

Wonderful touring

before heading over to Elbrus and its infamous accommodation - 'the barrels'...

Elbrus and it's views

after 2 days of storms and some more altitude acclimatisation, we got lucky with the weather and all made it to the top (along with 100's who were competing in the 'Red Fox Race')...

A successful summit after 2 days of storm

before returning to the valley and the villages.

Some local characters

Rule Britannia

The Britannia Hutte at 3030m

Paid for by the British members of the Swiss Alpine Club, the Britannia Hutte first opened in 1912, and was given to the SAC in thanks for the hospitality British mountaineers had always received. One hundred years on and the connection is still strong. For the centenary anniversary the British members bought the hut seven new solar panels.

Starting out to summit the Strahlhorn 4190m

Today the Britannia Hutte isn't just popular with the British in fact its the most popular hut run by the SAC in the alps. Why? As they say it's location, location, location. So close to Saas Fee (in winter ski tourers can use the lifts almost to the door - it's just a 15 minute slide and walk from the top of the Egginerjoch drag lift), and it's so close to some stunning mountains. From the hut you can summit the Strahlhorn 4190m, Fuchthorn 3795m, Rimpfischhorn 4198m, Alphubel 4206m,  Allainhorn 4027m and join the Haute-Route ski tour. And don't forget those amazing sunsets.

Stunning sunsets

But the accommodation and food is also top notch. Having undergone an extension and renovations in 1997, it can comfortably sleep 134, has 3 dining rooms, indoor loos and running water and is run by a small, extremely cheery team who work from before 5 am to gone 10pm each day. It's popularity with guides may be down to the free pre-dinner glass of wine.

One of the three dining rooms

The hut is open for ski tourers from March-May, and for summer mountaineering and climbing from middle of June to end of September. To book visit the website www.britannia.ch

Moiry Via Ferrata

Wonderful views across to the Moiry Dam

We finally got to try our local via ferrata route on the crag next to the Moiry dam. It's a 230m piece of cliff which looks insignificant from afar but once up on the rock gives a sense of airiness along with great views.

It's a long way down and I've only just started...

The route starts with a D+ (difficult +) grade but then branches - you can continue along the same grade, or opt for a harder TD (very difficult) or easier options - AD (fairly difficult) or F (easy). The climbing is almost entirely done using metal staples for hand and foot holds - a system used a lot on the via ferrata routes in France. No one's pretending to climb the rock here.

Most of the route uses staples for hand and foot holds

In addition to the main climbing routes there are options to cross a 70m bridge suspended 100m above the ground, or (new this year) climb a 30m metal scrambling net; if you're with a guide who has the key for it, you can do the massive tyrolienne zip-line.

View from the bridge

For more information visit the following sites:
www.valdanniviers.ch/tourism/moiry-ferrata.html
www.sites.google.com/site/viaferratatrail/moiry

Yes, there really is a picnic table on a ledge at point 10....

The various routes and levels of difficulty 

Cabane fever

In the last three years there's been a flurry of building and up-grading in 4 of the valley's 7 mountain refuges or cabanes.

The new Cabane de Tracuit photographed in April 2013 - just before completion

The latest project to be completed is the largest and most ambitious (and expensive) of them all. The 84 year old stone Cabane de Tracuit (www.tracuit.ch) has been replaced by a brand new, glittering silver block. Using the latest environmental technologies, this state-of-the-art building has wonderful panoramic windows, underfloor heating, running water, inside toilets, showers and modern dormitories. It still only sleeps about 120 people but it's a spacious building with a variety of sleeping rooms and spectacular views. Since opening in June it's been very successful - becoming a destination in it's own right.

The new extension to the Cabane Becs de Bosson with wonderful views

Over in Grimentz the Cabane Becs de Bosson (www.cabanedesbecs.ch) built an extension last summer. It now has a beautiful new 'sun-room' (with wood-burning stove), more dormitories and inside toilets and showers. It's almost doubled it's size and the wall of windows give spectacular views.

Cabane d'Ilhorn has a more restaurant space and new rooms

In Chandolin the Cabane d'Ilhorn (www.clubalpinsierre.ch/cabane-illhorn) also redesigned it's interior last summer. The staff now have a large new kitchen and the restaurant space has been extended to upstairs. Downstairs a whole new dormitory wing with showers and toilets has been built.

The new copper building is linked to the old Cabane de Moiry

And last but not least, the Cabane de Moiry (www.cabane-de-moiry.ch) which in 2010 added a new building alongside the old stone refuge.  The new copper clad extension has enhanced the old building and gives visitors a wonderful new restaurant with amazing views across the Moiry glacier, inside toilets and additional dormitories. You can read and see more pictures in an earlier blog www.skizinal.blogspot.ch/2010/07/new-moiry-hut.html

40th Sierre Zinal Mountain Race

Everyone who finishes gets a medal

On Sunday this legendary mountain race took place for the 40th time. Not only has it been going longer than any similar race but for many it's also the most beautiful. Its known as the race of the five 4000'ers because of the stunning views of five four thousand meter peaks, amongst others. Each year one of these five mountains is depicted on the reverse of the medal - it was the Dent Blanche turn this time.

Spectacular views  

This year over 3500 people signed up to take part as either a 'tourist' or in the 'elite' group of athletes, and the whole event was televised for the first time. The race starts in Sierre (for the 'tourists' that means a 5am departure to the sounds of a jazz band) and climbs on tracks for over 2200m before descending 800m into Zinal - total length 31km's. The 'elite' includes professional athletes from all over the globe; the course record was set by New Zealander Jonathan Wyatt in 2003 with an amazing time of 2hrs 29' 12" (this year - 10 years on - he took just 3mins 32secs longer and came first in the Veterans).

The course statistics

It's a fabulous day for both runners and spectators. We went up to Barneusa - one of several feeding stations along the route - to cheer the runners on. Some sprinted past grabbing for a sponge or cup of water while others stopped to drink, chat and listen to the alp horn.

Plenty of volunteers help out 

This year the winner was Marc Lauenstein from Switzerland with a time of 2:32.14. You can see part of the race on www.rts.ch, who televised the whole event for the first time. To find out more about the race you can visit the offical website (www.sierre-zinal.com) where you can also sign up to take part in next year's event.

Lac de Moiry

Flowers along the lower path on the west side with great views to the south.

I'm not really a fan of man made reservoirs but the Lac de Moiry (when full) is an exception. Today the lake was only half full so some of the rubble sides were unfortunately exposed, but its turquoise water and location go some way in making up this downside.

Edelweiss and early morning views from the high path on the eastern side

Above Grimentz, at 2250m it is a great starting point for some stunning walks, including two circuits around the lake - one high, one low. Both are wonderful - the high route traverses around at 2500m, at one point it's a rocky (chain assisted) path but for the most part you are walking across alpine pastures, over streams and past smaller lakes. The lower one (on the west bank) is lined with alpenrosa and other alpine flowers that contrast against the turquoise of the reservoir. Perhaps my favourite combination is to start at the southern end, head towards the dam via the high western path and return on the same side via the lower path. This lower path is wide and an easy walk, so you have plenty of opportunity to look up and take in the spectacular snow capped mountain views.

Last rays of sun reflect the mountains onto the Lac de la Bayerina on the western high route