Vallon de Rechy - downhill (nearly) all the way

Alpenrose in bloom as we descend from the Cret

Views of La Maya at the head of the valley

The gondolas in Vercorin started their summer timetable last weekend. With the current heatwave the 1000m ride up to the top of the Cret de Midi at 2330m meant the air was a lot cooler and we reached the start of one of the area's more gentle mountain walks and prettiest ways into the Rechy valley  - without even needing to walk up hill.

Flowering marsh meadows at l'Ar du Tsan

Crossing back before starting our descent

From the top of the Cret we followed a wonderful gentle descending traverse that scribed the hillside south, past blooming alpenrose, to the buttercup filled marsh meadows at L'Ar du Tsan (2180m). From here you could turn north and continue to descend (more steeply) to the next flat area at La Le and the start of the bisse waterway which flows with you all the way back to Vercorin. But we decided to extend our route and climbed up to the next flat area (near Lac Louche) for closer views of La Maya and a great picnic spot before making a loop which brought us back to the Tsan meadows and on down. A great day out.   PK

Descending from Tsan to La Le

Where the river runs through

The gorge at the end of the 'Plats'

The southern end of the 'Plats' flood plain is blocked by a wall of rock -while the footpath climbs up and over, the Navisence river has cut down through it, forming a narrow gorge. This steep gorge is impassable in summer due to high water levels, but at this time of year you can climb across the exposed boulders and work your way up gorge. It's a wild mysterious place - especially today with the swirling mist and low cloud. PK

New route to Lac d'Arpitettaz

After a snowy day the sun came out and we just had to go for a walk. It's been a while since we've done this route and we found quite a few changes. 

Across the Plat de la Le and up the first section everything was covered in an inch or two of fresh snow - not enough to completely cover the autumn colours, but it gave it a certain something.

Walking up from the Plat to the bridge

Reaching the upper level, we came to a new bridge spanning the Navisence. Since a storm in August 2013 washed away much of the river bank, (including the original bridge), several temporary bridges have been used to span the multiple streams and rocky floodplain, but these too were vulnerable to flooding. Now that's changed as this new wooden structure is built up on solid concrete footings.

New bridge spans the Navisence

Once over on the east side we found the path has been re routed. The new way, freshly carved into the turf, heads south to pass close above the cascade, before climbing up to the cross and enclosures at Le Chiesso.

The new path goes above the Cascade de la Volermo

Continuing on up to the Lac, there was another surprise - two shepherd's huts with solar panels had been dropped in for the season. Designed by three carpenters from Diablerets these high tech, mini pods are light enough for a helicopter to lift up to the high 'alpages', giving shepherds a more comfortable night under the stars.  PK

Temporary shepherd's huts by Lac d'Arpitetta

You can read more about this project on www.24heures.ch

The 'high' way from Zinal to Petit Mountet in early autumn.

Fresh snow on the mountains are golden autumn colours

A real gem of a walk and at this time of year the colours are jewel like - sapphire blue sky, emerald ferns and ruby red leaves of the myrtile bushes - and to think autumn has hardly begun. A real contrast to the last time I wrote about this route which was in July when there was still snow to cross and the pink alpenrose was in bloom.

A wonderful traverse with fabulous mountain views

It's a real favourite and by using the cable car there's hardly any climbing. You just stroll south across the mountain on a long traverse which slowly descends via the Cabane Petit Mountet to Le Pla and back to Zinal village. For nearly half the walk you are over 2400m and the views to the east are unbeatable, plus at this time of year we were the only people up there.    PK

Descending to the Cabane Petit Mountet

Bisse des Sarrasins

Part of the board walk along the Bisse de Sarrasins

This is the perfect time of year to walk this low level path from Vercorin to Pinsec. The route was originally built in the early 15th century to duct water the 9km from the Torrent de Pinsec, around the cliffs, to the pastures and village of Briey above Chalais. After 400 years of use, it was finally abandoned in the early 1830's when a major landslide did irreparable damage.

Boardwalks follow the old route across the cliffs 

In 2004 a group of local enthusiasts started a 10 year project to reinstate the route. Board walks, cantilevering off the cliff now link the lovely forest paths and make this a wonderful walk, especially good in autumn with the golden colours.

Old bisse route, now a wide footpath between Vercorin and Pinsec

Trails and Tales of the Turtmann

Heading south on the eastern slopes of the Turtmanntal

This summer we've spent several days walking in the magical, wild and near deserted neighbouring valley - the Turtmanntal.  It was here that the last bear was killed, and is now the terrain of a wolf, as well as home to eagles and of course marmots, chamois and ibex.

Old paths and waterways

There's a road up from the valley, but arriving by cable car in Oberems gives a real sense of separation from what's below, as does walking down from one of the passes. Walkers on the long distance 'Tour du Cervin' or 'Summer Haute Route' from Chamoix to Zermatt cross this valley. Descending from the Meidpass, most stay at the Hotel Schwarzhorn in Gruben, an old victorian hotel, before continuing their route on up to the Augstbordpass and over to the Zermatt valley (at 2893m it's name gives travellers a clue as to when it's reliably passable).

Heading up to the Augstbordpass

The trails and paths that run south from Oberems are less travelled, some are overgrown and parts have fallen away. There are bisse to follow and old shepherd huts that tell of times when this was an important summer grazing area. Hanging in the chapel at Gruben is a wonderful painting depicting the 1822 rescue of a girl from the river. She was swept downstream for over 2km before a shepherd spotted and plucked her from the water.

Bear paw, 'man of the forest' and rescue story

Continuing further south from Gruben the valley ends at the snout of the Turtmann glacier, from here it's mountaineering and ski-touring country.

Looking across to the Turtmann glacier from Col des Arpettes

To find out more:
www.turtmanntal.ch

A rocky existence.

This summer we've done lots of walking up to 3000m - well above the tree line of around 1800m. At these higher altitudes the terrain is harsh and exposed, and snow patches can last all year. But somehow things still grow - a quick glance across a grey scree slope just below the Hohtürli pass and it appeared to be just thousands of stones and certainly no soil. Look a little longer and your eyes adjust to see splashes of green and pink - a 'field' of Glacier Crowfoot grow in splattered patches across the slope. The record for high alpine flowers goes to Saxifrage biflora, a pretty pink flowering plant, which has been found at above 4000m in the alps

Just below the Hohturli pass - Glacier Crowfoot - Ranunculus glacialis

A little lower down, a crack in the rock becomes the perfect 'flower-pot' for some Dwarf Rampion

Dwarf Rampion - Phyteuma humile

At the mouth of the Zinal glacier amongst large rocks Alpine Toadflax blooms and Pansies cover another scree slope

L: Alpine Toadflax - Linaria alpina. R:Alpine Pansy - Viola alpina

Dwarf Soapwort and Harebells flourish in hairline cracks in boulders near the Cabane Bec de Bosson and above the Moiry reservoir

Dwarf Soapwort - Saponaria pumilio 

Dwarf Harebell - Campanula collina

A small depression in a boulder is filled with Moss Campion near the Gemmi pass

Moss Campion - Silene acaulis

And along a much travelled path, Alpine Saxifrage manages to survive the altitude and passing walkers tramping through.

Alpine Saxifrage - Saxifraga nivalis

The Grand Tour of the Val d'Anniviers

Spectacular views of the Imperial Crown

After 8 years of living here we've walked most of the valley's footpaths and yet the views still stop us in our tracks. Walk the same route twice (or more) and it's different every time - changing with the weather and seasons. So it was a great pleasure when Inntravel asked us to re-walk and adapt their existing tour of the Val d’Anniviers. The journey has high and low level routes to allow for bad weather and tired legs, and includes some of the best this area has to offer - alpine meadows, old chalets and villages, ridges and lakes, and all with the spectacular snow capped mountains to the south. With a bit of luck, there's a chance to see some of the local wildlife too - red squirrels, chamois, ibex, marmots, eagles, adders, fox - to name a few.

From Vercorin explore the 'bisse' and Vall on de Rechy

Starting in Vercorin, the perfect warm-up and introduction to the old valley routes is to follow the 'bisse' - the 500 year old channel which brings water around from the Vallon de Rechy to the village. It’s a gentle walk through woods to the open meadows around the buvette at La Lé where you can stop for a drink and something to eat, before heading back to the village.

The dramatic high route along the Crete from Vercorin to Grimentz

To walk from Vercorin to Grimentz via the Crêt du Midi and Brinta is a highlight. Taking the gondola up from the village to the Crêt, you save your energy for this long ridgewalk with fabulous mountain views. But if the weather's bad there's a lovely walk through the woods and alpages with old chalets, lovely flowers and views too.

Low level walks through meadows and alpine villages

From Grimentz you can spend your day getting closer to the snow with a walk around the Moiry reservoir and on, up to the Cabane de Moiry. The new restaurant extension, with floor to ceiling windows, looks straight out onto the glacier and is a great place for lunch.

A circuit around the Moiry and up to the Cabane from Grimentz 

Some of the most spectacular mountain scenery is from Zinal. The walk up to the Cabane Arpitettaz is as dramatic as it comes with backdrop of the 4506m Weisshorn and the snowy Blanc de Moming giving a Himalayan sense of scale. Then there's the walk over the Roc de la Vache and to the Petit & Grand Mountet refuges through lovely alpine terrain.

Many spectacular walks around Zinal

The high 'balcony' walk from Zinal to St Luc is another classic with views of the Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Pointe de Zinal, Besso and Dent Blanche.

High 'balcony' walk between Zinal and St Luc

From St Luc, to finish your week, there's the wonderful panorama from the top of the Ilhorn. From here you can see your entire route around the valley to the west and south, and perhaps plan a trip north into the Bernese Oberland.

Panoramic views from the Ilhorn above St Luc

So when’s good to walk? From mid June (when the lifts open for walkers) right through until late October. Autumn is one of our favourite times here - perfect walking temperature, golden larches and early snow dusting the mountain tops. And barely a soul to be seen.

Autumn colours in Val d'Anniviers

To find out more about the walking on tour visit Inntravel, or if you fancy to stay put and explore at your leisure then self-catering from one of our chalets is a great option.

Go with the flow - follow the bisse...

Vercorin Bisse

Within the Valais there are over 2000km of 'Bisse' - as they're called in French, and Wasserleite or Suonen in German. These ancient, man-made water channels, traverse the mountains, bringing valuable water from rivers to villages and fields. Once they were a life-line, but after WWII many fell into disuse and disrepair as technology advanced, and the cost of maintaining them rose.

Paddles and locks control the flow of the water along the Vercorin Bisse

Today, many have been restored and you can walk the well graded paths next to the channels. Here, in the Val d'Anniviers, there are several dotted around (although not all have water). Vercorin is a favourite - through forest, and around the hill into the Vallon de Réchy. It's a great walk, and on a hot day the water acts as a natural air-conditioner below the trees. Elsewhere in the Valais, there are more 'sporting' routes, such as the Torrent-Neuf above Savièse. A great example of the risks and feats of engineering that were achieved to get water to where it was needed.

Torrent-Neuf, Saviese

The Torrent-Neuf dates back to 1430, with many extension and even tunnels added over the centuries. It has recently been restored and is open to walkers between May and November. But you need a good head for heights -  bouncy new suspension bridges, link cantilevered sections of boardwalks across the tall cliff face. An amazing route, and the information panels with old photos show just how dangerous this was to build and maintain: www.torrent-neuf.com

For more hiking routes that follow bisse in the Valais:
www.valais.ch/en/activities/hiking/bisses
www.valrando.ch/bisses1/propositionsbisse.php

The Museum of bisses is in Anzère:
www.musee-des-bisses.ch/musee-bisses

Some wonderful old footage of a 'guardian' of the bisse at work:
www.rts.ch/archives/tv/information/3441605-le-gardien-du-bisse.html

Zinal to Cabane Petit Mountet - the 'high' way

Stunning mountain views

Lowering yourself on a chain through an ice cold waterfall is not everyones idea of a good walk, but if you can cope, you're rewarded with some of the most spectacular views the valley has to offer. This high route is a 'mountain fest' of snow, ice and peaks. In front of you is the whole Imperial Crown -  the collective name for the five 4000m+ peaks (Bishorn, Weisshorn, Zinal Rothorn, Obergabelhorn, and Dent Blanche) that sit at the head of the valley, plus the other 'little' mountains that fill your horizon - oh and lets not forget glimpses of the Matterhorn right at the back.

Not for the nervous walker

Taking the cable car up to Sorebois saves the 800m climb up from Zinal village and puts you near the start of the 2400m contour that you follow south. The route winds and climbs around the mountain on flower lined paths, crossing streams, waterfalls, rock shoots and in early summer the possible snow patch before opening out in a meadow - the perfect picnic spot to sit and soak up the view.

Picnic spot with wonderful mountain views

Descend through meadows of Alpenrose to the Cabane

After this point the route descends through meadows of Alpenrose to Cabane Petit Mountet (2142m) where you can relax with a beer and look out onto the Zinal Glacier before heading north and down to Zinal through meadows and across La Pla.

Heading back to Zinal through meadows and across La Pla

Total distance: 14.5 km
Time: about 5 hrs to include stops
Ascent: 250 m
Descent: 1015 m